though I am pleased to be able to say that what it lacks in, well,
everything, it makes up in great mountain scenery.
I think our suspicions were first raised by the incredible abundance
of car wash (by hand) businesses here - literally whole towns of
"lavazho" and one tacked onto every roadside restaurant. Jesse
remarked on this phenomenon to a guy we met in a gas station, and his
response more or less said it all; "it's because our country is so
dirty". Elsewhere we saw city-sized factories, statues of communist
iron fists, and many, many disused machine gun bunkers.
However, on the climb up to the pass above Tirana we also encountered
some spectacular scenery, and the rare opportunity to ride for a long
time along a high ridge line. At some points there were vertical drops
on both sides of the ridge, and after 10km or so we plunged downwards
to the rather dreary capital.
Today brought our total distance since Istanbul to almost 1100km in
six days; tomorrow we will head for the border and cross into
Montenegro.
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